Unrealistic Goals Of Chemical Peels:
- It cannot remove or reduce the appearance of blood vessels on the skin.
- It is impossible to truly change pore diameter. However, by removing blackheads, the pores may actually appear less pronounced after treatment.
- This is not a procedure to get rid of keloidal types of scars.
- Chemical peels are not a facelift.
This is typically not appropriate for improving dark skin discoloration in people of color (Asians, African Americans, Caucasians of Mediterranean extraction, Hispanics, etc.). The exception to this is the Obaji Blue Peel.
There are a variety of different chemicals used for the purpose of rejuvenating the skin in what are called “chemical peels”. The main reason to select an active agent is based upon the desired depth of the chemical peel. If the skin concern is predominantly superficial, then a milder, less caustic ingredient is selected. If deeply placed conditions exist, then far stronger products with matching levels of potential complications may be necessary.
The Four Levels Of Peeling
The ingredient and concentration obviously play a very big role in determining the ultimate depth of the chemical peel. However, other variables can make a difference such as whether a pre-peel de-fatting prep was performed, the amount of chemical applied, and the length of time the chemical was allowed to stay on the skin. Another important factor is which area will be treated. The variations in skin thickness can affect the ultimate peel outcome. For instance, the face usually heals far more rapidly and typically experiences far fewer complications (such as discoloration, scar formation and infection) than areas such as the backs of the hands or neck.
Chemical peeling agents that perform mild or moderate peels typically provide a safer peel that has less associated long-term side effects. These peels work on the epidermis and possibly the most superficial portion of the dermis (known as the papillary dermis).
Deeper peels go midway into the dermal layer (into the reticular dermis), almost invariably leaving a permanently lighter skin tone. Instead of being able to tan as in the past, this lighter skin often freckles instead. These deeper peels should not be undertaken lightly, and you need to make sure in advance that the peel technique will be feathered into the scalp line and performed down the neck, possibly even the décolletage, or you may find that you have a highly noticeable line demarcating your original skin tone and the new one that is on the face.
Types Of Peels
NATURAL SKIN PEELS
Herbal Enzyme Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of telangiectasia, rossacea, redness, and pustules.
A blend of pancreatic enzymes and nourishing herbs, the herbal enzyme peel gently exfoliates dead skin cells, opens up clogged pores, soothes, heals, and rejuvenates sensitive skin.
C+ Enzyme Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of dehydrated and prematurely aging skin.
This potent anti-oxidant peel repairs sun and other environmental damage while protecting the skin against free radicals. The topical vitamin C contained in the C+ enzyme peel also contributes to collagen synthesis for a firmer and fresher looking skin.
Pumpkin Enzyme Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of blackheads, acne, and fines lines on non-sensitive skin.
A combination of alpha-hydroxy fruit acid, vitamin A, as well as enzymes and anti-oxidants from fermented pumpkin, the pumpkin enzyme peel dissolves oil, removes dead skin cells, stimulates new cell growth, and protects the skin from free radicals.
Glycolic Acid Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of blackheads, acne, hyperpigmentation, and fine lines on non-sensitive skin.
Glycolic acid is a natural component found in sugar cane and fermented fruits, used to dissolve oil, which is responsible for dead cell build-up on the skin surface. Glycolic acid also improves skin hydration and strengthen collagen structures in the skin.
Lactic Acid Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of fine lines, wrinkles, dehydrated, and dry skin.
Naturally found in sour milk, but also a component of blood, muscle, and skin, lactic acid is used to exfoliate and moisturize. It gently dissolves dead cells while increasing the ability of the skin to hold water, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Salicylic Acid Peel: This peel is recommended for the treatment of blackheads, acne, oily skin, fine lines, and age spots.
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid derived from the Wintergreen Leaf, used to stimulate cell production and control bacterial growth. The salicylic acid peel dissolves hardened dead skin cells while controlling oil secretion.
Medical grade peels
Jessner Chemical Peel: Recommended for the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles on non-sensitive skin. This peel contains Lactic and Salicylic acids, as well as Resorcinol.
Non-Resorcinol Jessner Chemical Peel: Recommended for the treatment of acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles on ethnic and sensitive skin. This peel contains Lactic, Salicylic, and Glycolic acids.
TCA Chemical Peel: Recommended for the treatment of deep epidermal-dermal acne, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. This peel contains Trichloroacetic acid.
Chemical peels can really make a difference in the skin’s texture and take years off your appearance. They can also make for a nice benign maintenance treatment that maximizes your rejuvenation regimen. Whatever the reason you are considering a chemical peel, follow your doctor’s directions carefully. Doing so will maximize your benefits and minimize problems down the road.
Before Your Chemical Peel
Sometimes Retin A - a prescription medication derived from Vitamin A - is used to pre-treat the skin. This thins out the skin's surface layer, allowing the TCA solution to penetrate more deeply and evenly. If your skin won't tolerate Retin-A pre-treatment, an AHA cream may be used instead. Hydroquinone, a bleaching agent, is sometimes used in conjunction with Retin-A or AHA pre-treatment, especially if you have blotchy skin areas or pigmentation problems. You may have to spend a month or more in the pre-treatment phase before the doctor will schedule your actual peel.
After Your Treatment
After a peel, it is common to experience some temporary flaking or scaling, redness and dryness of the skin. However, these conditions will disappear as the skin adjusts to treatment. The deeper the peel the more dramatic immediate effects are apparent, however there is a longer recovery period consisting of peeling skin, redness, hyperpigmentation and possible swelling and discomfort.
Getting Back To Work
With a light to medium peel, the temporary redness, flaking and dryness that you experience will not prevent you from working or engaging in your normal activities. A fresher and improved skin texture will result with continued treatments. Remember, protecting your skin from the sun is also important following these mild acid peels. UVA and UVB protection should be used every day.
Improvements from light to medium peels may be very subtle at first. You may detect a healthier glow to your skin. With continued treatments, you will notice a general improvement in the texture of your skin.